tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79287005367620933732024-03-13T02:52:51.626+00:00The Mechanics Modelling WorldMy Blog for updating progress on current "Work In Progress" modelling projects, general news and chat.The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.comBlogger320125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-44821059347262928282019-03-14T16:03:00.001+00:002019-03-14T16:03:41.513+00:00Canberra PR.9 XH134 1985 Scheme WIP #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>If you have been following my blog from the start, you might start to think to yourself "Hasn't he already built a model of XH134?". The answer to that is yes, I did build a 1/72nd scale model of XH134 back in 2013, along with XH131 and XH135. These were part of my "End Of An Era" project which consisted of the last three Canberra's in RAF service when they retired in 2006. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Now this is a new two part project in which I am building two 1/48th scale models of Canberra PR.9 XH134 at two different stages of her service. This is going to be the first part of this project, building XH134 as she was in 1985 when she was assigned to No. 1 PRU at RAF Wyton. The second part of the project will be how she was in 2006 in her Retirement Scheme, just like in my "End Of An Era" model, but in 1/48th scale with a load of aftermarket extras. Another point of doing this aircraft twice, is to show how she varied in her set-up between the 21 year period. So for the first part of this project, I am building XH134 as she was during 1985 and in the dark green and dark sea grey over light aircraft grey.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The base kit is the Airfix 1/48th scale Canberra PR.9, of which one of the four scheme options is the 1985 version of XH134. Just like the second model that I will be building, this one is having some aftermarket extras included in the model. These items are the cast resin bomb bay from CMK, Eduards interior and exterior etched set, and Eduards etched landing flaps.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>So let us get started on the construction of this bird. The first area that I tackled was the alterations that needed to be done to the cockpit area. This was where I discovered a bit of a mistake on Eduards behalf. In their instructions they say to take kit part 1F, cut the tip off and then cut the navigators floor in half. The front section then has to be glued partially under the front of the main cockpit body so that it measures 52mm from the bulkhead to the end of the floor. This is wrong, do not cut the floor in half as it measures 52 mm when still attached and the tip cut off.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>I continued with the alterations on the cockpit parts for fitting the pre-printed etched panels and replacement parts. The kit comes with the cockpit set-up of the B.8 aircraft, so some modifications have to be done to convert it to the PR.9. The first alteration is to remove the navigation and bomb aiming equipment from the front section of the cockpit. This has to be done so that you can move the navigators position from alongside the pilot to in front of him. This then left another issue that there was no way to mount the navigators ejector seat. So I made up a bracket that fits to the floor for the seat to glued to once everything has been painted and ready to go into the fuselage.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Once I was happy with the seat bracket, I moved onto the plain etched pieces that have to be fitted prior to painting. The biggest part at this stage was the panel next to the pilots position, this needed to be folded up and glued in place. I am not sure if Eduard ever built this up properly, but the measurements and angles were not correct meaning that some filing was needed to get this to sit near enough right. The other two pieces were box behind the pilots position and an instrument box over the main control panel. I gave all of the etched parts a coat of Mr Metal Primer before a coat of normal primer and a couple of coats of black.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Whilst I was in the mood for working with the etched detail for the model, I decided to get the etched flap housings done on the wings. Canberra's have two sets of flaps on each wing, one either side of the engine exhausts. The inboard housing looked to be the more awkward one to assemble, but it turned out that these were the easier ones to build compared to the outer units. Both housing were basically a case of bend up the end plate, the fold and twist the ribs around and glue into position. The inner unit also had a brace that ran across the middle to a panel at one end. This held all of the ribs in their positions making them more secure once everything was glued down. The outer unit did not have this brace, therefore leaving nothing to support the ribs allowing them to keep moving. Another problem was with gluing them, the slightest knock and the rib would break loose. The next set of these that I make up will be soldered together instead of using superglue, it is a bit more secure to solder them instead of gluing.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Onto the modifications to the upper wing surfaces for fitting the flap housings. The kit wings have moulded rib detail on the upper wing sections, these have to be removed to allow the etched replacement parts to sit in place. The inner flap housing was straight forward preparing the area for that one to locate. You just draw a straight line from the engine tunnel across to the wing end and remove the raised rib detail. You also need to remove part of the end brace to accommodate the end panel of the new housing. I test fitted the housing with the lower wing section in place making sure there was no issues. This revealed that more plastic had to be ground away from the upper section and a little on the lower one along the edges. Once happy with the inner housing, I moved onto the outer one.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>With this one, I placed the etched outer housing onto the upper wing section and marked out where it sits. The process of removing the plastic ribs started as well as thinning the trailing edges of the upper wing. After some test fitting, some areas of the lower wing were ground away to allow the two halve to close up properly. Once I was happy with this wing, the etched parts were glued into the places and work started on the other wing following the same procedure as this wing. Once both wings had their flap housings in place on the upper wings, I glued the lower halves to the uppers and secured the housing along the lower joints with some superglue to add some extra strength to them.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The etched replacement flaps at the minute have not been assembled yet, I am leaving that until a little later. These are going to be soldered together instead of gluing them, due to them being a box construction. I will tin all of the areas where they will join up, fold each flap into shape and run the iron along the outside surface to heat the solder and create the joint. This will be stronger than using superglue and easier to clean up any excess solder away.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Well, that is all for now, I will go into detail on fitting the resin bomb bay and fitting the pre-printed etch to the cockpit panels and navigators seat in the next WIP post for this project.</i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-38153303707544279742019-03-09T17:40:00.000+00:002019-03-09T17:40:01.313+00:00Inspector Morse's Jaguar Mk.2<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Inspector Morse's Mk.2 Jaguar must be one of the most iconic cars on British television and is the one which rekindled the car lovers interest in the Jaguar Mk.2. It was on my modelling bucket list to build a model of this very famous Jaguar from the TV programme. I admit, I do have a love of Jaguar's, Aston Martin's, Mercedes Benz's, Ford Mustang's Lamborghini's and some of the Ferrari's, with several examples of these cars in my stash of kits. So, when the opportunity came up to build a couple of models for the Car and Motorcycle SIG "Best of British" display at last years IPMS Nationals, this was the first one on my list to build.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The kit is the lovely Jaguar Mk.2 which use to be produced by Tamiya. This is the road version of the Mk.2, not the racing one which was based on the Coombes Jaguars. The only problem that I initially had was that the kit comes with wire wheels. The Morse Jaguar had steel wheels with chrome hubcaps, which come with the Revell/Aoshima jaguar XK120 kit. A friend of mine happened to have a set of these wheels, tyres and hubcaps in his spares box and allowed me to have them (thank you Lee for them). All I had to do was convert them from the Revell fitment to the Tamiya fitment allowing them to be mounted onto the model. For this, I had to sacrifice four Tamiya wheels from my spares box, just to get the pins that slide into the rubber ring inside the disc brakes. After some filing down, these were glued to the back of the hubcaps which were then glued to the wheel rims once they were all painted. The rest of the models chassis construction was straight normal as in the instructions. The only other extra I added was the HT leads in the engine.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The bodyshell was built straight from the box, all that I had to do different was add the vinyl roof to the car just like the real version. Jaguar never fitted vinyl roofs to the Mk.2's, this was an aftermarket one which was fitted by one the past owners of the car. There are some vinyl roof kits available for model cars, I actually have one sitting in one of my draws. But I decided to make my own using thin masking tape. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>After a couple of failed attempts, I managed to get the measurements right and got it to lay down in the correct location on the roof. Once all of the prep work was done on the body, is was primed and wet sanded ready for the body colour. To get the correct colour, I found out what it was on the real car and then looked for the paint code. This is when I discovered that there was three versions of this colour, two which are metallic that originated from the 1960's, but the colour I needed dated back from the 1950's. Luckily, I managed to find the code, popped along to my local paint factors and got an aerosol tin mixed up. I decanted a couple of small bottles of the colour to degas and the model was airbrushed using the paint from the degassed bottles. Zeropaints two-pack clear was used and then polished after it had been left to harden. The vinyl roof was then brush painted using Vallejo black paint thinned slightly and done in a few coats to build up the colour and reduce any brush marks from the finish.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Final construction was carried out as to the instructions, but I did have an accident with the windscreen snapping it in half. Luck for me, I have another two of the Tamiya Mk.2's in my stash, so I took a screen from one of these to replace the broken one. The Morse jaguar is a 2.4 litre engined car, this kit has the 3.8 litre engine in it. There is no visual difference from what I can see, so you would not know unless you look at the side of the engine block. The only extra items that I had to add to the body were an aerial to the right hand wing, AA badge to the front grill and the round wing mirrors which came from a Fujimi Mini kit. The number plates were made up from the silver lettered old style UK number plate decal sheet from Motobitz.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>It all, this is one of my favourite builds so far, I did not go to the extreme of extra detail like I did with the Heritage Racing Coombes Mk.2 that I did several years ago. But it is just how the car looks with those steel wheels and hubcaps, not something you usually see on stands at model shows. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>And a few more with the Coombes Mk.2 that I had built previously.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><br /></i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-76829116985377455752019-03-08T20:44:00.000+00:002019-03-08T20:44:29.356+00:00Hawker Hunter T.7 XL 577 229 OCU Project<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>There has been a project that I started planning a few years back which was to build several aircraft from my father old RAF unit, 229 OCU which he served his national service in during the late 1950's. He was based at RAF Chivenor in Devon where the unit was training pilots up to jet fighters certification. The aircraft in this unit was Gloster Meteors, De Havilland Vampires, Canadair Sabres (only for about a year) and Hawker Hunters. The aircraft were initially assigned as 229 OCU aircraft, but towards the end of the 50's, the aircraft then started to be assigned in shadow squadrons. these squadrons were 234 Squadron, 145 Squadron, 79 Squadron, 131 Squadron, 127 Squadron and 63 Squadron at various time until disbandment in 1974, then reformed with 65 (R) squadron from 1986 until 1992.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>My initial plan was to build one Meteor T.7, one Vampire T.11, two Hunter T.7's and two Hunter F.6's. There are some aftermarket decal sheets which cover two T.7's and two F.6's. The Meteor and Vampire have no aftermarket decals available, so they will have to be created by myself once I have found out the marking for those aircraft. The number of the aircraft that I was going to build has now increased slightly, as two of the Hunter that I had purchased for this project, ( a F.6 and a FGA.9) have both turned out to have 79 Squadron decals in their boxes. So that is now two extra aircraft which will be in the 229 OCU collection. But I am also thinking about doing a Canadair Sabre and a Meteor F.8 to complete the 1950's line-up of aircraft. Now, the FGA9 Hunter was from the 1970's, so this got me thinking that maybe, I should do one or two more of the later aircraft, which happen to be Tornados. But this is just a thought for now.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Anyhow, back to the initial subject of this post, the Hunter T.7 XL577. The base kit is an old Matchbox Hawker Hunter F.6/T7 kit which was first produced back in the 1970's. I had actually built built one backin about 1979/80 as a T.7, so it was a bit of a nostalgia trip building this model for me. These are basic kits, no interior detail except for basic seats and a flat control panel. The fuselage has the option of building it as a single seater F.6 or the twin seater T.7. This was going to be the first of my T.7's for this large project, so she was built straight out of the box with just two of the drop tank fitted to her. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>After tidying up any joints issues and priming the model, she was given a couple of coats of Xtracolor's High Speed Silver. The decal sheet comes with decals to for six different aircraft, but you can only build one model from the sheet. Now as the yellow bands come as a decals, I decided to mask the model and paint these bands on instead, allowing me to do both of the aircraft I need from this sheet. Once she was dry and had a couple coats of gloss clear, I started with the decals for this aircraft. This is a model of aircraft XL 577 of 234 Squadron as she was around 1960, a couple of years after my father left the unit. Once the decals were finished, they were sealed with more clear before final detail painting was done and final assembly. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Even with the age of this kit and the lack of detail, it still produces a nice model which will look great along side the other aircraft that are being built for this project. The photos below were taken late in the build, so there is none from the beginning of the construction, but I plan to rectify this when I build the second T.7.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><br /></i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-29462540298990925662019-03-08T19:51:00.002+00:002019-03-08T19:51:37.398+00:00Ferrari F40 "Blackstar" WIP #8<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Now, every once in a while, you will get a model that will fight you at some point. This Ferrari F40 Blackstar has been one of them. The initial build of the chassis, engine and interior went by without any problems or issues. But the bodyshell, that has been a different story.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>After all of the chassis was completed, I turned my attention to the preparing the bodyshell for priming and painting. The first issue that I hit, was the engraved "F40" emblem on the rear spoiler. For a model in this scale, it was not engraved deep enough into the spoiler in my opinion. Once there was a coat of primer sprayed over the body, the detail of this virtually disappeared. Also when you are filling and sanding the joint between the spoiler and the bonnet, it was very close to the "F40" emblem. So after being as careful as possible sanding around these joints, I gave all of the body parts a couple of coats of black paint then left them to dry for a few days.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Before doing the clear coats on the bodyshell, I checked over all of the parts to make sure there was no issues or problems with the basecoat. Everything look okay, so I commenced with the clear starting with a light coat first then followed by a couple of heavier coats. All was looking great, the clear had covered well and had a nice shine to it. So I left the parts to dry overnight with the plan to continue the next day. The following afternoon, I went back to the bodyshell parts to continue working on them, only to find that the clear coat had reacted with the basecoat overnight. Some areas had gone cloudy and others had crazed. I had never seen this happen before, so out of disappointment, I packed the </i></span><i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">F40 away to deal with the issue on another day.</i><br />
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<i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">A year had gone by and I decided to have another go with the F40. The first job was to strip the clear and base coats off the body parts. I tried my usual method first, using Fairy Power Spray. After a couple of attempts, nothing was happening, the Power Spray was not strong enough to deal with the paint. So it was onto the hard stuff, brake fluid. The whole process took over a week to complete, once the parts were stripped, they were given a thorough wash in a strong mix of general household cleaner (the wife was puzzled by how quickly the bottle was emptied). Yet again, I was distracted by another project, so the F40 went back into the box for another day.</i><br />
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<i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Now a little bit more time has passed and the F40 again sees the light of day. I am not rushing it now, just doing little bits of it at a time. All of the bodyshell parts have been re-filled in the areas that lost the filler from previously after the brake fluid removed it. Next it was primed and wet sanded to show up any issues, which were then sorted out using either filler or Mr Surfacer. A bit more primer followed by some more wet sanding and we are ready for some colour to go down.</i><br />
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<i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">This time I am playing it save and using Tamiya Gloss Black and Gloss Clear rattlecan when I repaint the body. To start with, I have airbrushed around the awkward areas to ensure that I get a good covering of the black, also to save wasting the aerosol paint too. So far, the main bodyshell has been painted, the doors and their inner panels, rear valance and headlight units. The rear body section exposed a hairline crack when it got sprayed, this could not be seen when it was in primer stage. So this will need to be sorted out yet again.</i><br />
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<i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I am now going to each part of the body one section at a time, check over each part to make sure the black finish is okay before clearing it. The drawback is that I will have to fit it in between other projects which have to take priority over the F40. Once all of the bodyshell is painted and cleared, the rest of the work will be straight forward, painting the interior, sorting out the glazing, final assembly of the body before fitting it all to the chassis. But first there are two projects that have to take priority as one has to be done for a show at the end of April and the other for Telford in November. But I hope that the F40 can be done for Telford this year too (how many years have I said that now?). So fingers crossed!</i><br />
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The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-33965270104848551092019-01-15T17:37:00.001+00:002019-01-15T17:37:27.904+00:00Subaru "Scooby" Impreza WRC WIP #01<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>It is amazing what you can pick up at a model show and for a reasonable price too. The previous owner of this kit probably had the same idea as me for this model, not to build it as a rally but as a road going stock/tuner example. They had already sanded away the moulded aerial bases and the bonnet safety catches from the bodyshell, and that was all they had done.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So five or six months back, I got this kit out and started to got through the options for changing the wheels on it. I toyed with a few different options from my collection of wheels, but none really stood out on the model. Plus they would have needed to be converted to the Tamiya fitments to go on the Scooby and also fit around the large front brake discs. So I decided to stay with the stock wheels in the kit.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>After some thought about how I was going to build the model. Do I put the fog lights in the bumpers and the bonnet mounted fog lamps? The answer was no, this was not going to be a rally car so it did not need them. Next it was how was I going to change the general look of the car. I thought about building up the front bumper and spoiler, wings, rear bumper and the boot spoiler. Just like a big body kit that they add to these cars. But I decided not to go that mad and keep it more subtle.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>On the front, all I did was to extend the lower lid of the spoiler using plasticard and plastic rod then later add a bit of filler to give it some more shape. Once I was happy with the basic shape of the spoiler lip, it was time to more onto the side skirts. My original plan was to do the same as the front spoiler, just extend them and add a little filler to shape them up.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>After I had got the basics of the front spoiler and side skirts done, I moved to the back of the car. What was I going to do here? First, I wanted to put two large bore tailpipes on the car. So I did a little of modification to the kits exhaust, added an extension to add another tailpipe to the other side of the car. Te new tailpipes and the extension were made from plastic rod and tube. They still need a little bit of tweaking to get them right, but that will be done as I finalise the rear of the car. Next, i decided to add a rear diffuser underneath the rear of the car. The first one I built was a flat wide one, similar to what they fit on some racing cars, but I did not like how it turned out. Next it was a smaller one, but I got the angle and curve wrong on it. So I started to do a third one with a lesser curve to it, but packed the Scooby away for a while whilst I dealt with a couple of other models for Telford.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Anyhow, jump forward a few more months and I am off work on long term sickness after an accident at work. After finishing off a few other "On-hold" projects I have moved onto the Ferrari F40 (which will be updated separately) and the Scooby. I got the Scooby out of the box, had a good look at it then reviewed what the plan for it was. I was happy with the front spoiler, it just needed to have some filler added and sanded to shape. The side skirts now did not look right, so they had to be changed. I trimmed the extensions back to the original skirt edge, but left the plasticard underneath to add some more depth to it. Next, after sanding down any rough bits, I glued a strip of half-round plastic along the skirt edge to round it off. On the rally versions, there are location points for the car stands to slide into when the mechanics are working on it during a rally. I do not need these on the model so they have been filled in.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Then it was back to the rear of the Scooby.What was I going to do here? Well, to start with the diffuser idea has gone out of the window. But the rear bumper does still sit high off the ground, so I have to add to the lower edges of it and bring it closer to the ground. I started with a length of 2mm plastic rod, heated it up with a hair dryer and bent it to match the shape of the bumper. These parts were then glued in place along the edge of the bumper. I now added a length of 1mm plastic rod and glued them around the outside of the 2mm rod. To build up the rear ends, I added a short length of 1mm mainly to give the putty and filler something to hold onto. Mr White Putty was now added, left to harden overnight and sanded back. The shape and size was still not right, so a second layer has been added and sanded, bringing these areas closer to the shape I want. Next I will start with some filler to get to the final shape that I am looking for. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Once I am happy with the sides, I will move onto the centre section between the tailpipes and close this area off to match the sides of the bumper.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>At the minute, you can see that I have assembled the roll-cage and dry fitted it into the interior. I do not think I will go with the cage, but leave it out. But this gives me another problem, there is no rear seats with the kit. So I am thinking about paneling the rear space out and add a few amps and speakers where the rear seats were. well, that is one idea for now. I might also have a look at some of my other aftermarket wheels to see if any of them will firstly fit over the front discs, and also look good on the car. I have also got Bolton Model Show this weekend, so I might even have a look around there to see what is on offer.</i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-64454771474697537322019-01-14T19:44:00.001+00:002019-01-14T19:44:09.984+00:00The Yorkshire Black Sheep Modellers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now for a little break from talking about my models and onto the subject of the club. After the group of us that broke away from our old club, we set up this new club, The Yorkshire Black Sheep Modellers.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The idea of it is to return to a calm, relaxed and joyful atmosphere at our meetings. At the first meeting, there was eleven of us and the membership has grown to eighteen. We took over the local library after the old club moved to new meeting rooms down the road and still have our meetings on the first and third Saturday mornings of each month. The members come from the areas of surrounding Hemsworth, Wakefield, Dewsbury, Leeds, Selby and even one member who travels up from Luton when they can make it to meetings.<br /><br />Right from the creation, we agreed to apply for IPMS(UK) branch status, which was granted soon after the club's formation. We are a fun loving bunch of modellers, that will take the Mickey out of each other. This sense of humour also carries on over to the club stand when we are at shows, with the presence of Black Sheep on the stand (sometime flatuant sheep). We just go out to a show to have fun.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Below are some photos from one of our meetings when we had a visit from David Francis, the editor of SAMI magazine. Other photos are of the stand at a couple of shows and some of our humour on the subject of Black Sheep and how we include them onto the stand.</i></span><br />
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-44575616455171932962019-01-14T15:45:00.002+00:002019-01-14T15:45:38.483+00:00English Electric Lightning F.6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This has to be one of my most favourite builds so far, the Airfix E.E. Lightning F.6 in 1/48th scale with a whole lot of extras added to it. These extra detailing items are as listed as listed below.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>CMK: Full cockpit, air intake and front undercarriage bay, control surfaces, main undercarriage bays, air brake doors and housings, electronics compartments and upper engine all in resin.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Aires: Resin engine exhausts.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Eduard: Etched brass cockpit access ladder.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Master-Model: Pitot tube.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I will not bore you with a complete build description, it is basically the same as the F.1 I had built earlier.But I will give you some tips about fitting the CMK resin parts as the instructions that they supply are not very clear. With the cockpit, there are two small thin panels which look like according to the instructions, get glued directly to the cockpit tube. They do not, these are glued directly to the inner surface of the of the fuselage once you have worked out the position of the tube. For the tube to locate properly, use some strips of thick plasticard and glue them to the fuselage for location guides ready for when the tub gets glued in place. With the air intake, drill out some of the waste resin from the cone and the radar body, then fill these voids with some liquid metal for nose weight. The engine bay needs plasticard guide to locate it just like the cockpit tub. Also drill out some of the waste resin from the engine as it a solid piece and adds tail weight to the model. The actuator rams for the airbrakes are the wrong way around in the resin kit. The replacement resin ailerons are smaller than the ailerons on the kit. Finally, the main undercarriage bays need a lot of filing and sanding to get them to fit within the two halves of the wing surfaces. Remove any of the </i></span><i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">moulded </i><i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">undercarriage detail from the inner wing surfaces, then bit by bit, file and sand the resin bay until it fits in between the two halves. Once you have got it all fitting perfect, take measurements from this one and transfer them to the other undercarriage bay to repeat this process. I hope this helps you. The Aires resin exhausts were not problem, they are a straight swap for the kits plastic ones.</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Now that I have got that all out of the way, the rest of the build was straight forward as a normal model. I used Xtracrylix paints for the camouflage scheme on the model with other various paints for detailing, etc. The engine unit was painted using Alclad metal finishes followed by some washes to weather it up. During my research on this build, I noticed that when the upper engine bay cover was open, there was a brace fitted across the opening. So I scratch-built this brace and the cover support from plasticard and plastic rodding. The model was finished off with some light weathering and the Eduard cockpit ladder.</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Adding all of these resin parts does increase the weight of the model, it nearly doubles it. If I had of known how much it adds, I would have ordered some cast metal replacement undercarriage for the model. But whilst building the model, I drilled up the centres of each undercarriage leg and inserted a length of thick brass wire to strengthen them. This so far has worked and there has been no breakages of any of the legs yet. But I will advise you to use the metal undercarriage legs if you are going to add this much resin to your model.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>As I said at the beginning, this is one of my favourite aircraft builds to date. It will take something special to beat this model, of which there is several in my stash that are up there waiting to take this title.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Some photographs of both of my 1/48th scale Lightnings together.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-13604418454428803672019-01-14T07:57:00.000+00:002019-01-14T07:57:11.198+00:00McLaren F1 Road Car<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: -0.034px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>"Two hundred and forty-three mph. That’s the stat that grabbed everyone. Never before had a road-going car been capable of reaching such a staggering velocity – even if journalists couldn’t get the rev-limited road model past 221mph."</b></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: -0.034px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This is what a journalist said in December 2018 in a GQ article called "</i></span></span><i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><b>Why the McLaren F1 is the greatest supercar of all time</b>". Yes, the Bugatti's, </i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Koenigsegg's and SSC Ultimate Aero TT are faster, but not naturally aspirated engines.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This model if Fujimi's offering of the McLaren F1 road car, it comes as a kerbside model with only the upper surfaces of the engine showing. The general assembly of the car was very straight forward. I had no issues whilst building the model, apart from a couple of ejector pin marks which were visible in the outer door panels. The kit gives you the option of having the doors open or closed, I decided to do my F1 with one open and the other closed. This was because I was adding seatbelts to the interior of the model, Eduard pre-painted full harness to the drivers seat and standard cross-over belts to the passenger seats.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Once all of the main construction was done, it was painting time. My original plan was to spray the model in an Alclad Candy colour. So after the body was primed, it was given a coat of the silver base followed by the Indigo Blue Candy. This is where it all went wrong. First the ejector pin marks showed up on the doors, even though they were filled and sanded. Then some marks from the plastic itself became visible on a couple of the panels. The doors and these panels were stripped back, re-primed and painted. But I could not get the shades to match the rest of the body. That is when I decided to strip it all off and repaint the whole car. After the model sat on the shelf for a month or two, I changed my mind about the colour, not do the candy paint and got a tin of Tamiya Racing Green rattlecan out instead.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Once the model was finished and assembled, I sat at the bench looking at her thinking "Those wheel rims are just too bright for the body colour".So off came the wheels and the were resprayed Alclad Magnesium from what I remember. This made the wheels look a lot better and they looked just right on the model. The centre hubs were finished off with some metallic blue paint to throw some contrast against the rims. You will notice in the photos that the top of the open door is not stuck to the glass. This was because at the time the photos were taken, I did not a glue which was safe and strong enough to use with the clear plastic. This has been dealt with since and I used a UV activated glue on it which does not damage the clear plastic unlike solvent and cyanoacrylate based glues.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-79209356710251669702019-01-13T19:27:00.001+00:002019-01-13T19:27:39.237+00:00Grumman F-14A Tomcat "Tomcatters VF-31"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now this is a project that has been a long time to finally get to the finished condition. There are some WIP postings under the name "Atlantic Fleet Squadrons F-14A Tomcat" back in 2015. Well, many times I got the Tomcat out of the box, did a little bit to it, then put it back in the box in frustration. The tails had to be stripped of the one piece decals, re-sprayed, masked and then have the red sections sprayed before applying the individual decals to make up the tail art. I tried to continue with the kit decals, got part of the way and stopped when the formation light decals started to break up. That was the point when I almost gave up and binned the kit.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Well, fast forward to the beginning of this January and part of my drive to finish of some of my on-hold projects whilst I am off work, I decided to get the Tomcat done and dusted. My first task was to find some replacement formation light, of which there is some available, but not cheap to buy. I decided that the best ones to get would be the ones from CAM Decals. The only trouble whas that there was none available in the UK and Europe, but two companies had them in the USA. Luckily, before ordering them, I check my database on what F-14 aftermarket stuff I had. There was an item in it from Steel Beach Accessories with the title "F-14 Slime Lights". I was not sure what Slime Lights were, so I dug them out and low 'n' behold, they are pre-cut formation light stickers. So now that this little problem was solved, it was full steam ahead to finish the Tomcat.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So I finished off the decals, remove the old formation lights, touch up any paintwork and then clear the whole model. The canopy glass had a mould line run straight along the centre of the part, which was gentle sanded out and then polished away before masking and painting. Assembly and detail painting continued up to the point the where I had to do the access ladders. The problem I had here was that the door which drops down had got misplaced the last time I was working on the model. After spending a few hours looking in various boxes, trays and draws around the workshop, I resigned myself to the task of scratch-building a new one. The first door was okay, but I had got the shape slightly wrong. Attempt number and it was successful, so I finished making it with the remaining kit parts and some brass wire for the ladder runs. Now I fitted the final small parts to the fuselage and the Tomcat was finally finished.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now with it finished, eight years after I first brought it as a started project, I am very pleased with how she actually turned out. There was some things done in the early building phase by the previous owner that I would have not done myself, like gluing the control surfaces in their closed or neutral positions. But this is a drawback of buying a second-hand project, but it only cost me £15 to buy, and it is a £45 to £50 kit. So, my advice to you if you are thinking about getting second-hand started kit like this. Firstly the price of the kit? If it has been started, do not pay anywhere the normal price of it, aim for about half of it (unless it is a rare hard to find kit). Secondly, check the quality of the work carried out on it so far. Is it good and can any mistakes be rectified? Thirdly, make sure all of the parts are there in the box. Check them against the instructions if needed. Fourthly, it there is a load of aftermarket etch, resin or decals with the kit, are they asking a sensible price for it all? Even if you do not need these parts yourself, you can always sell them on and recuperate some money back, or even cover the whole cost.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Would I buy another started part-built kit again? Probably yes, depending on what the kit was and if it appealed to me. But remember, it is always a risk when you do. I have heard of some bad experiences that friends have had in the past, even on kits brought from traders. </i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-81236236394285112882019-01-13T14:55:00.001+00:002019-01-13T14:55:52.334+00:00North American P-51C Mustang<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>We all have our favourite aircraft from certain periods of time. My two from WWII are the Spitfire and the Mustang, of which I have several models of both aircraft in various scale in my stash.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This model is the Academy 1/72nd scale kit of the P-51C Mustang. I admit, it is not on the par of the current Airfix tooling of the Mustang, but that is a P-51D version. They did do a P-51B which dates back to the 1970's I think and I do have an example of this kit in my stash, but I doubt the decals will be any good in that now.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Anyhow, back to this build. This project was a quick build I did at the end of 2017, mainly to clear my head after Telford and to prepare myself for the three builds ahead for a club competition. Construction of this kit was nice and easy, not issues from what I can remember. The fuselage halves lined up with minimal differences resulting in just minor clean up of the joints. As with all Mustang kits, just like in the real world, the main wing assembly is built as a separate unit which bolts straight to the underside of the fuselage. Again, there was minimal gaps between the joints of the wings and fuselage needing only a tiny bit of filler to clean up.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Painting I went for the all over silver with yellow tail scheme. I cannot remember which squadron and fighter group this aircraft was from, as I have mislaid the kits instruction sheet somewhere. But when I find them, I will update the details on here. In all, a nice model to build and it looks great sitting alongside the other two 72nd scale Mustangs I have built so far. There are still some more in the stash to join them yet. If you do see this kit on a traders stand or in a shop, pick it up for yourself, you cannot go wrong with it.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-24425230495633375522019-01-13T14:24:00.001+00:002019-01-13T14:24:12.091+00:00Lockheed Martin F-117A Nighthawk RAF 111Sqdn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;"><b>What if the British government did take up the offer of the F-117A Nighthawk from the Americans and the Royal Air Force took delivery of a couple of Squadrons worth?</b></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Do you ever go around a model show, see a certain model and they are always the same colour and schemes? This is something I thought to myself on a regular basis when I saw models of the F-117 Nighthawk on club stands. They are always black, in USAF markings and some of them even with the "Stars & Stripes" on the underside of the fuselage. I wanted to do my Nighthawk different from all of the others I had seen. The American government had offered the F-117 to the British government, but we turned it down (which was a shame in my opinion!). So for a bit of fun, I decided to do my one in a RAF scheme, just as if we had taken up the offer on the aircraft all those years back. After a look through all of my aftermarket decal sheets, I found one that would work on the Nighthawk. This marking scheme was for a Tornado of the RAF 111 Squadron in their 90th Anniversary scheme, which I thought would look great on the Nighthawk.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now, this is the Revell 1/48th scale kit and it is not a nice kit to start with. The plastic it is moulded in is horrible and the fitment of the parts is not that good. I did swear at the thing several time during its construction. But I soldiered on with the model and got the main construction done to the painting stage. the model was sprayed all over in Light Aircraft grey, then the tails and fuselage spine were sprayed black after masking of the rest of the fuselage. Fitting the large decals to the outer surfaces of the tails was fun. Again, some swearing was heard from my workshop but after some manipulation, plenty of MicroSol and MicroSet, they went into position with minimal damage to them. The rest of the decals went onto the model without any trouble and they were sealed in with some clear afterwards.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The end of the road was now in sight. There was only some detail painting left to do, slight bit of weathering on the intakes and grills followed by final assembly. For something that was for fun and a bit of "tongue in cheek", it came out okay in the end. The first time I displayed the model at a show, it was alongside my two 48th scale Lightnings on the stand. Someone actually came up to me complimenting me on my build of the Nighthawk. He said it was about time someone did build one of the RAF versions of the aircraft, because he had only seen the USAF ones modelled. I explained that this scheme never existed on a F-117 because the RAF never had them and they were from a Tornado. But he was adamant that we did have them and he had seen them in the RAF grey scheme. I stopped the conversation at that point and let him carry on believing it was a real scheme. </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Sorry about the quality of the photos, but they were taken with my phone and I have not got around to doing some new ones.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-73252110005765069342019-01-13T13:48:00.000+00:002019-01-13T13:48:19.956+00:00Alvis Scorpion FV101 Standard Light Tank<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The Scorpion was one of the first tank models I made when I was a kid. It was the old Airfix kit in 1/76th scale which I had painted in black and green then used a hair bristle from one of my Dad's paint brushed for an aerial. How things have changed since then!</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This model is built from the AFV kit in 1/35th scale of the Alvis Scorpion FV101 Standard Light Tank. What can I say about it? Such a lovely kit to build. I thoroughly enjoyed building it, but my only gripe was the rubber tracks that come with the kit. They are not long enough. To make them fit, you need to do some adjustments to suspension mountings for the rubber tracks to fit. So I opted to use the individual link tracks that AFV produce as an aftermarket item for this and the Scimitar kit they produce. Building the model was straight forward, everything went in place without any issues. There is a few etched brass parts to go onto the model, the biggest part being the grill over the exhaust which needed to be curved around a 5mm diameter rod to the correct shape. The rest of the etched parts were just small detailing items.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The kit comes with five different markings options. A all white scheme of the Royal Army in UN markings, the Royal Hussars in black and green, the Royal Army in Desert Storm scheme and then the Belgian Army and Spanish Marine Corps booth in olive drab. I went for the Desert Storm scheme, painting it in British Gulf Armour Light Stone then weathering is in the appropriate pigments and paint. The model was finished off with two lengths of wire for aerials glued into the drilled holes on their mounts.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I say that the model is finished. Yes, the main construction is finished, I was on a deadline for this project for a club competition. In the future, I will most likely add some of the usual clutter around the tank that you would find on them during a deployment. But this will be at a later date once I get the correct items to go on the model. </i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-35733547310072988182019-01-13T13:21:00.000+00:002019-01-13T13:21:33.896+00:00Volkswagon 230 "Beetle" Gas Generator<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This model of an early World war II example of the Beetle, was known as the Volkswagon Type 230 Gas Generator. It was one of several Beetles and Kubelwagons that were fitted with wood gas generators mounted in the front of the vehicles.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This kit is a CMK 1/35th scale model which is an injection plastic kit with cast resin and etched nickel steel parts to convert the standard Beetle into the gas generator version. You need to cut out part of the boot floor to fit the lower section of the generator in it. This is the only bit of plastic surgery that needs to be done on the model, the rest of the resin parts just get glued in place on top of the boot lid and on the underside of the floor. I did have to rebuild one of the resin parts, as it had created a curve to itself after casting. This was sorted out by cutting away the curved areas of resin and replaced them with some plastic sprue of the same diameter. Apart from the surgery and rebuilding of the curve resin part, construction of the model was straight forward. </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I painted the model in gloss black and opted to fit the plain steel wheels to the model. Chrome hubcaps came with the kit, but I did not think they would suit the model. To finish the model off, there was some etched turn indicator arms to be assembled and fitted. The was also a roof rack with spare wheel holder to be assembled too. If they were etched in brass, the roof rack would have been not trouble to make . I could have got the soldering iron out and soldered it together. But with it being in steel, it was too springy and kept returning to a flat state. I could also not get enough heat into the metal to solder all the parts together too. So I gave up on the thing and left the rack off the model. The model was finished off with some weathering.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-89523996879562181552019-01-13T12:34:00.001+00:002019-01-13T12:34:40.677+00:00Where Has The Time Gone?<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>Where has the time gone?</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>This is what I have been asking myself recently. So I would firstly like to wish everyone a Happy 2019.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i> My plans back in May to keep on top of this Blog just went straight out of the window. I cannot remember if I had posted on here previously, but at the beginning of 2017 I set up a local modelling club with two other people. This was going great and the club was growing to a nice size. Then things started to go wrong when one of the co -founders decided that the club was his and it was going to be ran how he wanted it, using bullying methods to get his way. This came to a head last April when I was verbally threatened by him at the end of a meeting, resulting in myself leaving the club and followed by half of the membership. A majority of those who left, including myself set up a new club the following month which has grown to a nice size membership. So my time has been taken up with the setting up of the club, work and doing some decorating around the house. Unluckily, I also had an accident whilst at work at the end of November where I fractured three vertebrae in my lower back. This has laid me of work since then, but I am hoping to be back at work next month if the hospital allow me. But this time off work has also given me a chance to catch up on some overdue projects and get them finished.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>So, after that little round up of the chaos that has surrounded me over the last seven months, there has been some modelling done too. The Supermarine Swift FR.5 and Spitfire Mk.Vb " Scramble"have already been posted to the blog last May. So this is the list of completed builds that still need to be added on here.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Volkswagon 230 Gas Generator Beetle</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Alvis Scorpion FV101</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Lockheed Martin F-117A RAF Scheme</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>2014 Nissan R35 GT-R</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>North American P-51C Mustang</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>EE Lightning F.6 (which was finished in 2017)</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>McLaren F1</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Several More Minions and a bust of Gru</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Zombie Hunter Diorama</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Hawker Hunter T.7</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Inspector Morse's Jaguar Mk.2</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Steve McQueen's jaguar XKSS</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Shaun The Sheep Tractor</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Atlantic Fleet Squadrons F-14A Tomcat (finally finished it!)</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>I will also do some WIP updates on some old projects and some new ones as I go along. Also to be added, will be a post about the new club and I will try and do some regular updates on the club's activities, etc. So fingers crossed and lets get some typing done and photos added then bring this blog up to date!</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-42904598640210835372018-05-12T19:34:00.000+01:002018-05-12T19:34:16.779+01:00Supermarine Swift FR.5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>This is Airfix's recent tooling of the Supermarine Swift FR.5 in 1/72nd scale. It is a very well detailed model, as with all of the new tooling that are coming out of Airfix's design department. The only issue that I had was with the cockpit tub fitting into the fuselage. A little bit of sanding and filing was needed to the outer surfaces of the interior tub to allow the fuselage halve to close up properly. Otherwise, a trouble free build with such a wonderful kit. </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Airfix have given two options on schemes with this kit. The first is of the RAF No.79 Squadron based in Gutersloh, Germany in April 1956 and the second is of RAF N0.11 (AC) Squadron based in Jever, Germany in 1956. I went with the 79 Squadron version with the PRU Blue underside, because I thought it looked different from the normal grey versions you usually see. I used Xtracrylix paints for the scheme on the model, cleared it with Alclad Aquaclear gloss before decaling and finishing with Alclad's flat clear.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>In all, a very nice kit to build, as with all of the new tooling kits from Airfix that I have built, a pleasure to build them. I can highly recommend this kit of the Swift and hope that Airfix release some different versions of the Swift at some point.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-26727517158491182122018-05-09T20:31:00.000+01:002018-05-09T20:31:21.233+01:00Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb "Scramble"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This is the old Aifix tooling from the 1970's, which had originally been started by my grandson's friend who lost interest in it after one day. So as it was lying around, I decided to not let it go to waste and finish it off. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I wanted to do something different and first decided to have the Spitfire flying. But this had been done so many times, so I went down a different path and had the aircraft taking off after a Scramble. Construction was as normal, par the instructions. But I did a few cuts on the wings and rudder to position the aerolons, tail-planes and rudder as if the aircraft was doing a steep climb and turn. The undercarriage was altered to represent the struts retracting into the wings after taking off. I had thought about motorising the prop, but then realised that it did not warrant the cost of the motor for this model, so after a few attempts, I used a disc of clear acetate and painted the spinning blades on it . These will do for now, but I may replace it with either a better version of it or some photo etched ones instead.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The model was painted using Alclad 2's Mil-Spec paints and one of the kit decal options, sealed with Alclad's flat clear. I mounted the model on a length of acrylic rod glued to a hole in the underside of the fuselage which was then glued to a piece of routered MDF. The base was stained, varnished and the top was finished with some scenic scatter before mounting the aircraft to it. A quick build for an old kit to have a break in-between some other project, but with a little bit of imagination added to it.</i></span><br />
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-20223171206455280602018-05-09T20:05:00.002+01:002018-05-09T20:05:45.711+01:00So Much To Update!<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Hi everyone.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>All I can do is apologise for the lack of updates on WIP's and finished projects. The last six or so months have been a little hectic with one thing and another. The club I started last year with two other people has been the biggest interruption with my general life. There has been some problems caused by these two people which has ended up with me leaving the club along with several others, with us starting a new one in its place. I will get to this new club later.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Okay, on to the backlog of finished projects and some current WIP's on the bench at the minute. I will do individual post on here for each completed build to bring you all up to date things. This will start with a Supermarine Spitfire which was finished last summer, followed by the Supermarine Swift, a Volkswagon "Beetle" 230 Gas Generator, a FV101 Scorpion tank and finish with a F-117A Nighthawk. Once these have be done, I will start on the WIP's which are ongoing at the minute and hopefully keep up to date with them as work progresses.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Another thing, I have also given up my website which I had. This has mainly been down to lack of time to do anything on it for the last few years. It seemed to be a waste of money paying for the hosting when it was not getting updated . So I will slowly start to do some changes on this blog and add some of my best early builds to here in their own sections. All additions will be announced on the main posting page here.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So let's get updating things.</i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-34192466027214295422017-11-19T20:17:00.001+00:002017-11-19T20:17:59.629+00:00T28 Super Heavy Tank "The Beast"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>When I first got this kit, I thought that it was a Russian tank, but then looking at the box artwork, I got to thinking to myself "What is that American car doing there and why are they wearing American uniforms?". Then after a little research into this tank, I discovered that it was actually an American tank developed towards the end of the second world war. They had built two of these beasts and were developing them to destroy the German defences after the D Day invasion. But alas, these large tanks never saw action and only one is left at a museum in America.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So, lets have a quick run through of building this thing. The basic tank is fairly simple, with there not being any interior to build so just the main hull to be assembled. The time consuming parts of construction was the assembly of all the working suspension, with two springs in each unit. Why Dragon did this, is unknown as you will not really see them operating. These are also handed depending on which side of the hull or outer track units they get mounted to. Other things that took time were all of the wheels which need making up. Remember, this tank has four sets of tracks instead of the normal two, plus the track also need the all of the guide teeth glued onto them to, so mind numbing.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Once all of the suspension, tracks and wheels have been dealt with and assembled, you have to decide how you are going to display the tank. The kit offers two options, firt is to have the outer track unit mounted in position on the hull like in the photo above. Or the second is in their towing position as in the photo below. I made the choice to be able to have the ability to display the model in both set ups as when required. So I did some modifications which would allow this to happen, just by drilling out the pin positions on the locking brackets and use plastic rod to hold the units in place on the hull. A new removable rear brace was also made for when I was displaying the model in the towed set up. So now that this was sorted out, I could continue with building the tank. Dragon did the wise thing and supplied an aluminium gun barrel with the kit. A two piece plastic one would have not done the job, especially with the length of this one, you could not guarantee getting it straight.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>A few etch parts were included with the kit to make up the storage boxes, jack brackets, suspension arms and spare track holder. And yes, those tiny squares that you see on the model are little boxes which had to be folded up. There is an aftermarket etched detail available for this model, but I wanted to keep this as a quick build.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>From my research photos, I discovered that Dragon had missed out a few areas of the tank. The first was the boxed off areas in the outer track units. This was something that could not be ignored and I quickly made them up out of plasticard and glued them in place. A couple more things missing were the two hooks used to hook the cables over when towing the outer track units. This again was made from plasticard and glued into position on the rear panel of the hull. The final bit of scratch-building that I had done was the lower pulleys for the outer track unit lifting cranes. Looking at various photos, I manage to work out what they kind of looked like and made them up again from the old faithful plasticard. </i></span><br />
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<i style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Now that all of the main construction was done, it was time to start painting the model. After priming everything, I pre-shaded areas of the hull, wheels and barrel. From some old colour photos of the tank, I saw that the inner surfaces where the tracks were, it was painted in a faded light greenish grey colour. So I mixed up some paint to try and match this shade as I thought it might when newly painted and airbrushed the inner surfaces and wheels to match.</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>For the hull colour, I used Vallejo's US Olive Drab and airbrushed this in light coats. Some of the road wheels were also painted in this colour, but only the ones in the outer facing positions on the outer track units. The next task was painting all of the tyres on the road wheels before assembling them all onto the model.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Final assembly, detail painting and weathering now started on the model, with the push to complete it for the Nationals at Telford. I used a selection of weathering washes, pigments and streaking washes to weather the T28. But I made sure not to do too much as this tank had only been used on a proving ground base, so it would have not got that dirty.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Below you can see the scratch-built hooks what the towing cable hook over. I believe this is what they looked like as the photos I found were old 1940's military ones from the development days. They would have the cables either crossed over like this or have all of the cable eyes in the shackles and loop the cables over the hooks.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now the finished model, with the two track lifting cranes in their stored positions for transporting. I will be keeping this model in a storage box for safety reasons, as you see it here, the model is about 27 inches long in this set-up. I do not have the shelf space to display her on at the minute, so in the box she will stay for now until she the call to be displayed.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>It is a nice model to build overall, not fiddly interior to worry about, mainly because you would not be able to see it when built. It is something different compared to the normal armour models you see displayed on stands at shows. This model has only been to two shows so far, Southwell Show when it was still being built and Telford last weekend. At both shows, she drew a lot of interest from visitors who had never seen or heard of this tank before. But here is a couple of facts about it. The T.28 weighed 95 tonnes, had 12 inch armour plating on it, the gun was 105 mm T5E1, it had a top speed of 8 MPH and was to be transported over distances by rail, hence the detachable outer track units to allow this. Have a look on the internet for this special tank, just put "T28 Super Heavy Tank" in Google and look through the results. There is even a short video on YouTube of the tank being driven along.</i></span><br />
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-10557496959865914242017-11-15T20:07:00.001+00:002017-11-15T20:08:47.629+00:00Why Do We Have To Be So Busy?<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This is one of he problems with modern life, trying to find time to do everything. It has just been like that for the past few months, not enough time to do everything that I want to do. One thing that has suffered is this blog, how I wanted to be able to update it on a regular basis but was unable to. Now I am going to change how I organise my time.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Firstly, the blog is going to have a face lift, change how it looks and what content is on here. One thing that has beentaking my time up is the club that I formed with a couple of other modellers. This is now thriving and expanding, so I might include some of the club's activities into the blogs content. Another thing is that I have been thinking abiut giving up my website, another thing that has been suffering from lack of time. So I might try and incorporate some of it into this blog, or at least look into it for the future. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So this is just going to be a quick post for now, mainly just to let you know that I am still around and modelling. Once the refreshing work is done, I will update you all on the projects that have been finished or being worked on. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Happy modelling </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Mick</i></span></div>
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The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-88653399314659618252017-08-31T20:44:00.001+01:002017-08-31T20:44:55.529+01:00I'm Back<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Sorry that it has been a while since I posted on here. Well, about six months to be truthful, but it has been a busy time for me. The upkeep of this blog has had to take a back seat for the last few months due to, well, basically lack of time. It has been the same situation with my website, that I have even been thinking about giving that up as it must be getting on to two years behind. So this is a decision I will have to make before the hosting is up for renewal next year.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Now let me bring you up to date with the events that have happened over the last five months. Well, the club I had joined when we moved up here, called it a day in February due to there only being three/four members attending meetings. Meanwhile, I had been in contact with a fellow model builder nearby and we got onto the conversation about clubs. Over the next couple of weeks, myself, Mark and Alastair set up a new club called SESKU & Hemsworth Scale Model Club. We decided to hold the meetings on two Saturday mornings a month in all places, a public library. This has been one of the main things taking up my time, but the progress of the clubs development and growth has been rewarding. Since that first meeting back at the beginning of February, the club has grown to at present, 32 members including 3 juniors. You can see some of the clubs activities on its Facebook group.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/seskuhemsworthsmc/?ref=bookmarks" target="_blank">SESKU & Hemsworth Scale Model Club Facebook Group</a></i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So, lets get onto the modelling side of things. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>E.E.Lightning F.6</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I will start with the Lightning as that was the last "WIP" back in March. I am glad to say, she is finished. After a long time spent on it, adding all of the aftermarket resin sets, it has produced a beautiful finished model. Now all that is needed to do is finish writing up the magazine article on the model and take the photographs to go with it. Another thing that I need to set some time aside for. But here are some photos of the finished Lightning to see how these aftermarket set can change a model.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>McLaren F1</b> </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This is another "WIP" project from last year, put on-hold for not being able to decide on what colour to paint it. Well, I had finally decided to take the plunge and paint it with Alclad 2's Indigo Blue Candy. This was going okay until I noticed some ejector pin marks appearing through the paint on the doors, plus some marks on the front boot lid. So after stripping these parts, re-prime, base silver and then re-apply the candy. But I could not get the shade to match the bodyshell. So I could either strip everything and repaint from scratch, or go with a completely different colour. So I chose this path and went with Tamiya's Racing Green out of the rattlecan. It's not a perfect finish, but it had got to the stage of either finishing it then and there, or giving the model a permanent position on the "Shelf Of Doom"! </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>Alice</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This is one of the 1/24th female figures from Master Box that I have acquired over the last year and the first one to be built. Alice is from the 1940's Pin-up range, available in both 1/24th and 1/35th scales. The others are from the 1950's and current day, with some new ones being released covering the 1980's/90's. Now I am still not an expert in figure painting, still have a lot to learn about this. It is getting the skin tones right, with the highlights and shading. I think I will have to get my mate Blas up for a weekend to give me a lesson on this. well, here she is, in all of her glory.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>Spitfire Mk.Vb "Scramble"</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>A quick project, originally started by my grandson's friend who lost interest in it after a hour. So after having it sit on the shelf for a year, I decided to finish it off myself. This is an old Airfix kit from 1970's, raised panel line, etc. So I thought it was not really worth doing a fancy job on this one. My plan was to mount it on a base, just after taking off from a scramble. I made a few little cuts to allow me to re-position all of the control surfaces, then alter the undercarriage to have them in the retracting motion. The model when finished was mounted on a length of acrylic rod on a MDF base.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Well, that is the finished models so far this year, as well as the 1/48th scale Spitfire I did at the beginning of the year. So what is on the cards now? I am going to try and clear a couple more of the part build projects on the shelf of doom. One is the 1/48th scale F-14A Tomcat, that one where the decals started to break up on me. After a long time thinking about it, I decided to give the kit decals another go. The remaining ones on the sheet were given a couple of coats of Liquid decal film and the tails were then stripped, re-painted along with the red sections masked and airbrushed onto them. So far, it has worked without any problems, except for just one decal that decided not to follow the rules. I am not going to rush with the Tomcat and will keep going back to do it bit by bit.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Other projects on the go is the 1/16th scale Ferrari F40 Blackstar, which after a reaction between the clear and basecoat, it was put back in the box for another day. Well, I have finally stripped the paint from the bodyshell and other body parts. This took some time as it all had to be done using car brake fluid. Nothing else would touch the paint. The body just needs to have a couple of repair jobs done on it and then we start the painting process again. This time I am going to use the trusty Tamiya rattle can to paint her. Also on the conveyor belt called my workbench, is a P-51C Mustang from Academy, a Gloster Meteor T.7, part of my RAF 229OCU project and whatever else I decide to resurrect from the shelf of doom.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>That is basically how things are at the present time in the mad world of plastic that surrounds me. Soon I am going to have to make a decision on what major project to start. This would be one that I will be building to enter into competitions at shows that I visit through the year. There are several on the shortlist, including the 1/24th scale Mosquito and Typhoon kits, the Zoukie Mura P-51D Mustang, or one of the other kits that I keep thinking about starting. It is a hard hobby to be in at times, the trials and tribulations that we have to endure in the name of relaxation!</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>So, now that things are hopefully starting to settle down on the club side and my wife does not find me too many jobs to do around the house (that was another source of time diversion), I can start to get back to some serious time at my workbench and get some more models built. This year has been a slow one so far and I need to get back on track.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>If any of you happen to visit any models shows here in the UK and at one I am at, try to track me down and say hello. I will be at the East Riding Of Yorkshire Model Show this weekend at Driffield with the club stand. Also the IPMS(UK) Nationals at Telford in November on the Milton Keynes SMC stand. I am also planning to be at the Southwell Show near Newark in October, hopefully with the club stand to. So if you happen to be at one of these shows, pop along and say hello.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Also feel free to leave some comments on here to.</i></span></div>
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The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-27355453672554961462017-03-06T19:04:00.000+00:002017-03-06T19:08:03.940+00:00E.E. Lightning F.6 1/48th Scale With Extras WIP #2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Now for a big catch up on the Lightning project. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Except for when I was working on the Spitfire for the last month, my main attention has been on the Lightning F.6. But a bit of time was also spent on the McLaren F1 to, that will be covered in a seperate post. Adding all of this extra resin detailing parts, does extend the build time of a project, especially when the manufacturer does not supply instructions on how to adapt the model to accept the aftermarket parts. It is all trial and error!</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>In the last post on this project, I had brought you up to the point of number 2 engine bay cut out and fitted. The next stage was to fit the electronics bays onto the fuselage. The first one was along the spine just in front of number 2 engine. Once the door sections were cut away from the fuselage halves and cleaned up to accept the resin door, the process of fitting the panel with various components on needed its mounting to be worked out.The easiest method was to use some lengths of angled plastistruct as brackets for the panel to sit on. After some sanding, the panel was able to sit in between the fuselage sides low enough down and flush.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Included in the electronics set, was two compartments to fit along the side of the fuselage. First I had to identify the access panels on the fuselage, as the sets instructions did not match up to the fuselage. But using books and photographs online, I had managed to match up the correct access panels on the model and started to cut them out. The resin compartment boxes were then glued in position inside the fuselage and any gaps filled in.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i> The next stage to tackle was the control surfaces. The wings had replacement parts for both flaps and ailerons, of which the flap was a straight swap for the kit part. The ailerons were moulded into the wing upper surfaces, thus needed to be cut out of this part to accept the resin replacement. When checking the resin aileron up to the wing, I notice a difference in size between the resin aileron and the moulded one on the wing. The resin part was slightly shorter than the one on the kit, so the new aileron was marked out on the wing, cut out and original panel lines filled and sanded. The gap now exposed to the rear of the opening was filled with a strip of plasticard to strengthen the joint between the upper and lower halves of the wings.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The same problem was found with the flaps, being slightly shorter than the kit flaps. But this was easier to rectify by adding a thin strip of plasticard to the outer end of the flap opening on the wing. </i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Before assembling the wing halves together, the resin undercarriage bay had to be fitted inside each wing. The only problem here is that the bays are more than 4mm thickand the deepest space between the two wing surfaces inside was 3.5mm. So before removing the moulded parts of the bays from the kit parts, I measured their depths, noted how they curved and which way the curve went. I first cleaned up one wing allowing me to use the other as a reference, then started to file and sand the resin bay to shape. After several test fittings and adjustments, I was happy with how the bay sat inside the wing. I repeated the process for the other wing then once this was finished and I rechecked both bays, they were glued into their positions on the inside of the lower wing surfaces. Below is one of the resin bays before I glued it into the wing. </i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Now that the bays were fitted, I assembled the two wing halves together and fitted the flaps and ailerons to each wing in the positions I wanted to set them to on the model. The resin undercarriage bays are a vast improvement in detail compared to the moulded kit bays.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Now that the wings were finished, I moved onto the tail and replacing the rudder on it. This was a straight forward where the moulded rudder was cut away and the edges cleaned up ready to accept the resin rudder. Again I posed the rudder at a slight angle to give it some life, just as if the ground crew was checking the aircraft's control surfaces. I think I might need to get some ground crew figures to go with this model now!</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>I will finish this post up with the intake section. In the selection of resin part sets, I received a replacement radar unit and front undercarriage bay. This is a two piece set consisting of the bay and radar as one piece, then the shock cone as a separate piece. First the moulded undercarriage bay had to be removed from the intake halves before joining them together. Once this had dried, I could then start filing the opening to accept the replacement part. After some test fits and adjustments, the bay and radar unit fitted correctly inside the intake without the need to use any plasticard to fill gaps. Before I painted the intake and resin part prior to assembly, I drill out some of the waste resin from inside the radar unit and shock cone in case I had to add some weight into them further down the line. After painting, the radar/bay part was glued in position inside the intake.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>That is this installment for now and I with continue with more postings of this project very soon. Any comments or questions are appreciated.</i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-10445265144068108382017-02-28T21:05:00.003+00:002017-02-28T21:05:32.950+00:00Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb Airfix Sea Rescue "Start to Finish" <span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Over the last month and a bit, it has been very busy with the setting up of a new model club with three other modellers local to myself. During this period, we took a trip over to the Bolton show where I caught up with a friend. We chatted about the recent release of new paints and Alclad's Mil-Spec came up in the conversation. Over the next couple of days, I got thinking about our chat and thought about seeing how the paint is to use. I already had the RAF late WWII set and interior green that I purchased at Telford last year. So using this as an excuse for a break from the Lightning, I went through the easy accessible stash for a kit to use for trying the paint out on. So out from the pile came one of my Airfix Club Specialist Spitfires for the project. Unfortunately, with the setting up of the club and quick progress of the model, I have not got any WIP posts done so the whole project from start to finish is covered in one post. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>First stage of construction was the cockpit interior to ready it for painting. Once the main sections were built, I gave them a coat of primer before painting them with the Mil-Spec British interior green. The sections were finished with some wear and tear before adding some Eduard super fabric seat belts. </i></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Once the cockpit unit was finished, assembly of the fuselage and wing started at a steady pace up to the point of fitting the front cockpit section of the fuselage. This was when I noticed the step between the engine cover and the cockpit section, which was not a good thing to have on the model. So, I masked off the raised detail to prevent any damage to it and spread some white putty on top of the engine cover. Once this was dry, I sanded the putty until the new profile matched the higher area of the cockpit section. The panel line between these two sections was re-scribed before work continued with assembly.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Construction continued to get the Spitfire up to the stage for primer and pre-shading without any further issues. This version has the clipped wings, which Airfix supply two end sections to fit on the tips after the elliptic tip were cut away from the upper wing surfaces.One set is in the same colour plastic as the kit, but the others are in clear plastic, which the instructions said to use. To save me from masking the clear tips up, I cut off the navigation light sections away from the coloured plastic tips and glued them onto the wings instead of the clear ones. Then at the end of the build, cut the light sections off from the clear plastic tips and glue them into position on the wings. </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Painting started on the camouflage with the Mil-Spec paint with the RAF Ocean Grey areas. First I drew out a faint shape of the scheme with pencil and then freehand the grey over these areas. With this being the first time I have used this paint, I noticed that the needle kept clogging up after a period of painting. I messaged my friend Mark Davey for his advice and he told me that he sprayed the paint with his air pressure set at 12psi or below. I did this and the clogging problem ceased.</i></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Once the grey had dried, I masked the edges with blutac worms and masking tape, then sprayed the RAF Dark Green. The grey and green was touched up by freehand with the air pressure turned down below 10psi and paint flow reduced to. The top half was masked again to allow the underside to be sprayed with RAF Medium Sea Grey followed by the Sky band around the fuselage and yellow strips along the main wing leading edges. The propeller was given a coat of Sky the same time when I did the band around the fuselage, followed by the yellow tips on the blades and the remainder in black. Once all of this paint was dry, the model received a couple of coats of gloss clear.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The exhausts were quick and simple to paint. First, I gave them a coat of Alclad's Steel followed by Alclad's Exhaust Manifold to tone them down. Next I dry brushed them first with Dark Rust and then Light Rust from Vallejo. Simple but effective.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The decals were now added to the Spitfire fuselage and propeller then sealed with another coat of gloss clear. Not too many on these period aircraft compared to some of the more modern examples.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Weathering started by first adding the smoke staining from the guns, shell ejection holes and exhaust areas. Next the exhausts themselves received some staining before being glued in place on the nose. For the smoke staining I use soot coloured paint via the airbrush. Grime streaks were added using AK Interactive's Grime Streaks and three brown shades in oil paints. The next stage was to add the chipped and worn paint to areas on the wing walkways, gun/cannon hatches, wing leading edges, nose section, cockpit opening and propeller tip and blades. Now the model was given a coat of flat clear to protect the weathering. </i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Once the main weathering was completed, final assembly and detail painting was carried out up to the stage of where only the canopy sections and navigation lights needed painting and fitting to the model.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>The Spitfire is now basically finished, except for a little blow over with some dirt/grime coloured paint through the airbrush once the navigation light have dried in place. The finishing touches of the weathering was some fuel stains around the filler cap in front of the cockpit and little oil leaks from various panels under the engine area. These are the little touches that add life to a model which would be otherwise be plan and boring. Plus these were only clean and pristine when manufactured or after a major overhaul.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Conclusion, with the Mil-Spec paints, I was quite impressed with them. Evan thought they are enamel paints, you use them straight from the bottle into the airbrush without thinning. There is not the usual smell that we use to get from spraying enamel paints form the past, and they dry very quickly to which is an extra bonus. At first I was not sure about the shade of the Dark green, thinking that it was too brown in its shade. But after seeing a paint chip in a book then comparing the model to it, I was happier. Will I buy any more colours from the Mil-Spec range? Yes I will.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Below I have placed my FR. Mk.XIVe along side the Mk.Vb to compare the paint shades. The Mk.XVI was painted using Xtracrylix paints and you can see how much greener it is against the green of the Mil-Spec painted Mk.Vb. Now that this project is finished, it is back to the Lightning.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><br /></i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-62018024703063017982016-12-31T19:22:00.002+00:002016-12-31T19:22:34.519+00:00E.E. Lightning F.6 1/48th Scale With Extras WIP #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>When you build one 1/48th scale Lightning and realise how big it is, you decide that will be the only one you are going to build (says muggins who also has four Canberra's in this scale to). But when a friend asks if you are planning to build another one as they happen to have a load of the new CMK resin for review for the Airfix/Eduard Lightnings, it was just too tempting. So a Lightning was ordered along with a couple of extra items which would complete the upgrading of the kit. The upgrade set I am fitting to this project are as follows.</i></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>CMK 4350 BAC Lightning F2/F2A/F3/F6 Cockpit Set. CMK 4348 BAC Lightning F2A/F6 Engine Set. CMK 4344 BAC Lightning Front Undercarriage Bay Set. CMK 4349 BAC Lightning F2A/F6 Control Surfaces Set. CMK 4345 BAC Lightning Main Undercarriage Bays set. CMK 4343 BAC Lightning Air Brakes Set. (All supplied by Tim at SAMI)</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>CMK 4351 BAC Lightning F2/F6 Electronics Boxes. Aires 4318 BAC/EE Lightning F Mk.2/6 Exhaust Nozzles. Model Master AM-48-078 BAC Lightning Pitot Tube. Eduard 48632 BAC Lightning Ladder. (Purchased by myself) </i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The first upgrade I started on was the resin cockpit set which covers versions F.2, F.2A, F.3 and F.6. I decided to build the F.6, so the correct instrument panel was chosen and all of the parts cleaned up. The fun starts when you try and mount the tub! CMK do not supply and instructions on how to mount the cockpit interior inside the kits fuselage. The Airfix tub mounts to the starboard side of the fuselage, but this was not the case of the resin one. After a time of head scratching, I worked out it get glued to the port side of the fuselage and that the two upper panels also need to be glued directly to the fuselage to. Once I was happy with the location of the tub and upper rear panel, I used strips of plasticard to act as location guides for when fix the parts to the fuselage later after painting them.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1DxB3vskjnU/WGfvzZzU1iI/AAAAAAAARmQ/KK08rH22QTsYhRozdZhbojaX3oZZeoB4gCKgB/s1600/20161206_192557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1DxB3vskjnU/WGfvzZzU1iI/AAAAAAAARmQ/KK08rH22QTsYhRozdZhbojaX3oZZeoB4gCKgB/s320/20161206_192557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Next I started to modify the fuselage for number two engine bay installation. This upgrade set consists of five parts, three for the bay itself, the engine and the bay door/cover. The first to do is cut away the kits moulded covers from the two fuselage halves. This was when I discovered that the resin replacement cover was slightly shorter than the same item on the kit. But I had also noticed that the bay bulkheads had thin flanges on them, so this should fill the gap only if the flanges were still intact from packing and transporting. So the bay was assembled and test fitted in to the fuselage to sort out any problems. Apart from the damage to the bulkheads, there was no other issue with this set. Mind you, the engine is a single piece casting and solid resin, so I have drilled and grind out some of the material to cut back the weight a little as it will be sitting towards the rear of the aircraft.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bxKbQmB_V6k/WGf36QzG-mI/AAAAAAAARmg/9qhiBRgShvEHsf4r0KSB-bpY7XrGUX9DwCKgB/s1600/20161206_202808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bxKbQmB_V6k/WGf36QzG-mI/AAAAAAAARmg/9qhiBRgShvEHsf4r0KSB-bpY7XrGUX9DwCKgB/s320/20161206_202808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-unHEEMTBiMY/WGf36S4lvKI/AAAAAAAARmg/k3B56FjLYu4ujR6Y4q3z_zEEnk_JlzzYQCKgB/s1600/20161210_213700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-unHEEMTBiMY/WGf36S4lvKI/AAAAAAAARmg/k3B56FjLYu4ujR6Y4q3z_zEEnk_JlzzYQCKgB/s320/20161210_213700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The next bit I tackled was the air brake recesses. The set comes with two recesses, two doors and four pistons (two spare). The recess is straight forward to fit to the fuselage. I just drilled around inner edge of the moulded recess in the fuselage halves from the outside. Then removed the end panels and cleaned up the opening test fitting the recess sections as I went along. Once I was happy with how they sat against the inner surface of the fuselage, I glued them in place with superglue and filled any gaps in the joint using "Filla-Glu Powder". This also strengthened the joint of the recess panels to the fuselage.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EA6qxpf_-Yc/WGgCHe_DmnI/AAAAAAAARnA/5iev7keRjWgXY9uqOD-OglYx7UpXHMAEgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EA6qxpf_-Yc/WGgCHe_DmnI/AAAAAAAARnA/5iev7keRjWgXY9uqOD-OglYx7UpXHMAEgCLcB/s320/IMG_2951.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Well that is all for now, I do not want to make this post too long as there is plenty still to write about on this project. The model is actually quite advanced in the build from what you see here, so I am breaking it up over a few posts until I catch up to where the model is at present. So, until the next update, Happy New Year to you all.</i></span>The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-84619808306201131492016-12-29T15:55:00.001+00:002016-12-29T15:55:33.783+00:00Review Of The Years Builds 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>It is not until you get to this time of year and look back at what projects you have completed, that you realise how much you have got done despite having plenty of other interruptions. Mind you, a couple of the finished projects this year are ones which have been sitting, waiting to be finished. But the rest are all new projects for this year. So let me run through what has been done during 2016.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b>Messerschmitt Bf110 D-1/R1</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Dragon kit in 1/48th scale built out of box.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This was the very first project finished this year back in January. My plan was to get it finished before the end of 2015, but missed out by several days. The project was originally started back in 2013, then put on hold before we decided to move house in 2014. In late 2015, I decided it was time to clear some of the backlog of "On-hold" projects and this was the first one dug out and dusted off. I was glad to get this one out and finished off, it is a very nice kit to build and the end result helped to spur me on for the new year of modelling.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Grumman F4 Corsair Diorama</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Tamiya 1/49th scale kits built out of box.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The Corsair diorama was another project originally started around the same time as the Messerschmitt which was put on hold for the same reason. Once the Bf110 was completed, I decided it was time to finish this project off to and the boxes containing these models were unpacked from the boxes used during the house move. Now I was able to work out how to connect the motorised Corsair to the power supply and locate a carrier deck base which was large enough to carry both aircraft and the tug. The whole thing looks great when on display, which is impossible in my hobby room. So it spends its time stored in its transport box whilst at home. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Land Rover Ambulance</i></b></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Tamiya 1/35th scale kit built out of box</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I just do not know how old this kit was, but I think it might have been one of the first issues of this kit. This was the first all new project this year and as I started it, the thought going through my mind was if the decals had survived the years of storage or would they crack up as they hit the water. In the end, this was not any concern as the decals had survived and were in excellent condition. I had scratch-built the base to display the Land Rover on using MDF, car body filler and some local stone. The figures came from the kit, but are not up to today's standard of figures available.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DYsBKvizfmk/WGUhr0Q8b7I/AAAAAAAARhE/YnpMl5GDaBImgzLLE8AgsfleehgLoyzrQCLcB/s1600/20160502_153745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DYsBKvizfmk/WGUhr0Q8b7I/AAAAAAAARhE/YnpMl5GDaBImgzLLE8AgsfleehgLoyzrQCLcB/s320/20160502_153745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3sZ8tzbzc_k/WGUhr7hO8DI/AAAAAAAARhA/NiK27BR-_qgwHXzUIodPTnnNpjsJn1VFwCEw/s1600/20160502_153808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3sZ8tzbzc_k/WGUhr7hO8DI/AAAAAAAARhA/NiK27BR-_qgwHXzUIodPTnnNpjsJn1VFwCEw/s320/20160502_153808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1kmYH_9KF14/WGUhr_zJXZI/AAAAAAAARg8/afqP6dQd9Z0tkU_D16zdLA6vphZ1kP1dgCEw/s1600/20160502_153838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1kmYH_9KF14/WGUhr_zJXZI/AAAAAAAARg8/afqP6dQd9Z0tkU_D16zdLA6vphZ1kP1dgCEw/s320/20160502_153838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Nissan R32 GT-R</i></b></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Aoshima 1/24th scale kit modified</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Another blast from the past. In all, the main construction and painting had been done on this model. The only this that I had not finished was installing the cast resin engine and exhaust system. But after a wait of seven years, I took the GT-R out of the display cabinet and set to work installing the engine and exhaust. During this, I noticed that the bonnet had some marks on the finish. The problem was, I had none of this colour left so to overcome this, I decided to add some carbon fibre decal on the bonnet and a couple of other areas on the model. So another one on the "to finish" list crossed off. </i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>English Electric Lightning F1</i></b></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Airfix 1/48th scale kit basically built out of box.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>The next new project of the year, Airfix's 48th scale Lightning. These are one of my favourite aircraft and I was lucky enough to see them flying in RAF service as a kid. I have a few 1/72nd scale Lightning in my stash, plus two built, but always fancied trying a 1/48th scale one. This model was finished in a natural metal finish using Alclad paints and slightly weathered. The ejector seat was replaced with a resin one from Quickboost and I scratch-built a new pitot tube as the kits plastic one was, lets say, not round. I did say this would be the only Lightning that I would make in this scale, how I am wrong to say this with another one on the workbench now. There will be some changes done to this model soon with the pitot tube replaced with an aftermarket one and the addition of etched ladders for the cockpit.</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Vulcan "QRA"</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Dragon 1/200th scale kit built out of box.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>I had always wanted to build a display of a Vulcan either taking off or landing, but the Airfix 1/72nd scale Vulcan's are a little too big for this. So it came down to locating a smaller scale Vulcan for this project and Dragon's 1/200th scale kit was ideal for it. The model was built straight from the box, without adding any nose weight to it. I chose the "anti-flash" white scheme as it just happened to also be in 617 Squadron markings to. The base was MDF cut to simulate the shape of the Vulcan. This was painted and had scenic scatter added before mounting the Vulcan on a length of clear acrylic rod stuck into the base.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Higgins LCVP</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Airfix 1/72nd scale kit built out of box.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Not my normal modelling area, but when you pick up the kit for £3, you just have to get it. This was just a quick build to do whilst waiting to see which main project to start. Once it was painted, I thought this looked too clean. So I used it as an opportunity to try out some new weathering products that I had recently purchased. I was very happy with the end result, especially using these new products. At the models first outing at a show, someone commented that this was probably the best landing craft model he had seen. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>D.H. Vampire T.11</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Airfix 1/72nd scale kit built out of box</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Another quick build for me, but this planned to be part of a larger project consisting of three more aircraft. Airfix had produced a lovely kit here, as can be found in all of their new toolings of aircraft. I have aquired a few of these Vampire kits now, so others will be appearing at some point in the future. This is in the marking of the flying preserved example, but it is also meant to be the markings of the aircraft from RAF 239OCU from the 1950's. On this model, I left off the preservation societies marking when adding the decals to the aircraft.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Minions</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Since the three I built last year, my collection of Minion figures has grown with six more built this year. The ones built this year are themed on the following. Fifty Shades of Banana, Spock, First Banana, Breaking Bad, Cave Banana and R2D2 Banana.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Honda CB750F</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>Tamiya 1/12th scale kit built out of box.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><i>This was the final completed project of the year. Also an experiment in using Alclad's candy paints which ended up being a great success. These Tamiya bike kits do build up very nice and I was very happy with what I ended up with. This model was a great one to finish this year and give me inspiration for the year ahead.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7928700536762093373.post-90709871861177049682016-12-29T13:09:00.000+00:002016-12-29T13:26:54.229+00:00Honda CB750-F Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Sorry for the delay in updating on this project, even though it was finished at the beginning of the month, but bathroom refit has taken priority over updating my blog and other things. </i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Well, the response I have had over the colour that I did the Honda in has been amazing. So I was glad that I did not go with doing it in a factory colour and trod the path of the candy paint instead. This Alclad candy paint was so much easier to use than the other candy paints I have in my stock of paints. I will definitely be using it on my McLaren F1 when I start to paint it, possibly with a little twist to it to! Anyhow, back to the Honda.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>In the last post of this project, I was in the stages of final assembly and detail painting. The front mudguard was stripped and resprayed without any trouble matching the shade of the candy (sigh of relief). Once the final painting was finished, final assembly continued to complete the model. Mounting the exhaust system caused a few little alignment issues, but these were overcome with a little playing around with their positions. Apart from that, the final construction stage passed like a dream. I was initially thinking about adding heat stains to the exhaust down pipes, but I passed on this idea opting to have the Honda as a showroom example that had never been ridden.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>In all, this is a great kit from Tamiya, the first of the motorbike kits I have built from them. I am not into the modern style of bikes, my era is the 1970's through to 1990's, but I also like bikes from the 50's and 60's to. There are a few more motorbike kits in my stash, including a couple of Vincent Black Shadows. So the is still scope to try a couple more of the Tamiya bike kits yet. It is strange. In all my years of model building, I have only ever built four motorbikes. This Honda, the Harley Davidson Heritage Soft-tail and in my teenage years, the large scale Honda CB750 that Airfix used to produce and Barry Sheene's Suzuki RGA500 Grand Prix bike from the 1970's. This will need to be expanded.</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>So, below are some photographs of the finished Honda before I added the number plate to it. After the photos is a short video taken on my phone of the model spinning on my turntable.</i></span></div>
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<br />The Mechanic AKA. Mick Lomaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11304489111634137718noreply@blogger.com0